Granite Peak
Sorry for the lack of posts this summer, I’ve had a lot of great adventures, some successful and some not. This was a great day in the Beartooths and I have to share it with everyone. I was heading to Montana for my friend Kirk’s wedding and I wanted to go big on Saturday. This wasn’t a problem when you know the type of guys like Kyle and Eli from Bozeman. I was suggesting Mt Hilgard in a day, or maybe Mt Cowen. Both are big 20 plus mile days involving 4th class plus climbing. They suggested Granite Peak in a day. No surprise there, it is the biggest in the entire state, and involves 20 miles of grueling switchbacks, rough boulder hopping for miles along the Froze to Death Plateau, and easy 5th class climbing. Sounds like a great day to me.
Coffee at the West Rosebud Trailhead...2 a.m
The day started early, and we were walking at about 2:15 a.m. The trail goes by a large dam project near Mystic Lake, and climbs gradually a thousand vertical for 3 miles to Mystic Lake. Here is were the fun begins.
The beginning of the switchbacks
This route up the switchbacks is apparently shorter, 20 miles, than the East Rosebud approach up the phantom creek, 24 miles. Thank god we did it in the dark, because there are 29 switchbacks that cover around 3000 vertical in 3 miles.
Eli and Kyle gain the Plateau
First light on the Froze to Death Plateau
The plateau is about 4 miles of fairly rough boulder hopping and tundra walking to reach the Tempest Mt. area.
Sunrise on the Froze to Death Plateau
Typical boulder hopping on the Froze to Death Plateau
Granite Peak shows it's self
We made our way across the plateau and arrived to begin our “descent” to the saddle between Granite and Tempest.
Granite Peak blends with the Froze to Death Plateau
Break time before the break a leg descent down to the saddle
From the end of the Plateau you have to lose near a thousand vertical to the Tempest- Granite saddle.
The boulder descent down to the saddle
North side of Granite Peak
We arrived at the saddle and began the climb up the loose scree and boulders to the snow-bridge. This is were the real climbing starts.
A view of the east ridge route from near the snow-bridge
Mike Calla enters the first chimney system
Jon Lewis works his way through the chimneys
The climbing was pretty straight forward the whole time, pretty easy 4th class soloing between chimneys and ledges. We decided to leave the ropes at home to ensure light packs for fast travel up and down the mountain.
Eli works the maze of chimneys on the east ridge
Mike Calla enters another chimney system
Kyle and Eli near the "Keyhole" feature
Mike Calla nears the summit of Granite peak
The Bozeman boys on the summit
Beckey Couloir Glacier Peak
More views from the summit
Eli overlooks to the west of Granite Peak summit
Well now were only half way. We now have to retrace our steps. Down-climb the 4th class terrain we soloed up, climb back up to the plateau then travel it’s length, down 29 switchbacks back to the car. Wow, who’s idea was this?
Kyle starts the down-climbing
More downclimbing
4th class traversing on the down-climb
Eli crosses the snowbridge
We made our way back up to the plateau and were greeted by a local.
Beartooth local
View of Mystic lake from the switchbacks
We made our way back to the car, and headed to the Cowboy bar in Fishtail, MT. We enjoyed the usual shot and beer, and a surprisingly awesome bacon mushroom swiss burger. I headed to Chico, and the boys back to Bozeman. This was a great day. It is such an invigorating feeling when you have moved fast and confident over many miles of rough trail, as well as semi technical climbing in a long hard 15 hour day. It is not for everyone, physical, and more so mental endurance are paramount to success in mountaineering.
Fall colors of the West Rosebud
Right on, great TR! Love the pics…especially the one of Glacier.
Thanks Ryan, hopefully be back there this spring with skis!
Hey what date did you guys make your climb?
We made the climb in early September. Awesome day, totally doable in a day if you go light, with no ropes and such.
Sorry about the late response. I have let the web site lag behind for a while.
wondering if you ever headed back w/ skis, and what you were planning on skiing. I love the idea of skiing this peak and would take any beta available!
Hi Lucas,
Sorry for the late reply.
Don’t check the site much anymore.
I have been in from the south side with skis in the spring.
Cooke City side. Makes for an easier approach if you have a sled to the wilderness boundary. Plenty of skiing in the uppper basins around Granite, Glacier etc.
Hope that helps. Enjoy!