GRAND TETON OWEN SPALDING ROUTE

The Owen Spalding route is sometimes referred to as a “walk up”. In truth it is rated 5.4 in dry conditions. The route has a few exposed moves here and there, interspersed with class 4, easy 5th class scrambling through chimneys and slabs. On June 23 conditions are much different, winter conditions they say.

Usually we would do a one day ascent of the Grand Teton. The advantage is lighter packs so you can move much faster, completing a car to car journey in a long day, 10-20 hrs depending on the route chosen. This time we decided to camp in the meadows the first night, ascend the route, then walk out the following day.

We arrived at camp with menacing sky’s overhead and quickly set up, then waited out an hour or so of rain. No lightning or thunder, which is strange for this time of year.

Even in the summer  the Owen Spalding route is very cold. It faces west, and is above 13,ooo ft the whole route. We got a gentleman’s start from camp at about 7 a.m. and began the snow climb up to the lower saddle.

The ascent is efficient this time of year because of the directness of line. There is all snow climbing and no trail switchbacks to deal with. We arrived at the lower saddle at 9 am, and continued towards the upper saddle via the Idaho Express Couloir, the winter route.

In summer, the route from the lower to upper saddle follows the rock through a series of 4th and easy 5 class scrambling. Now the route follows the Idaho Express Couloir. It was pretty steep, and firm the whole way, this encourages not taking the express train to Idaho. 

 We were both feeling the elevation due to some down time for me from an ankle surgery, and Phil being at the Jersey shore for a few weeks, not exactly training for mountain climbing. Regardless, we just kept plodding along staying positive.

As we got closer to the upper saddle the landscape was changing before us. There was rime ice  coating all the rocks, and winter mountaineering conditions were front and center.

 We arrived at the upper saddle at 11, and things were looking spicy. We were just gonna take it one pitch at a time.

We arrived at the belly roll pitch and roped up for the  great mixed route.

The belly roll pitch was easier than normal due to the fat snow conditions. Then came the “crawl”. This pitch is usually pretty easy, but very exposed looking down 2000 ft into Valhalla Canyon. Now it was the crux. It was filled with snow and you had to squirm across a ledge with thousands of feet of exposure inches to the left, pretty exciting.

Next came the double chimney which was choked with snow and ice, as were the rest of the chimneys to come.

Next came the Owen Chimney, it was in great shape for moderate mixed climbing.

Next was Sargent’s chimney, which was pretty easy and filled with snow. We  then we arrived at the upper slabs and ledges near the summit ridge.

 These  ledges near the summit were encrusted in rime ice and presented a real magical place  on a beautiful late June day.

Getting down is mandatory, right? We knew we had summited and pushed through tired legs and lungs, but we still had a ways to go. Most accidents happen on the descent, you must keep focused to ensure safety.

We finally arrived at the lower saddle after some steep and technical down climbing and drank some water and ate. Much needed after only having a liter each for the last 11 hours of climbing. We arrived at camp and packed up, and turned our attention to some nasty blisters we both had. Funny how you don’t feel them until the high of the summit subsides. This was one of the most rewarding climbs I  have ever done. I really enjoyed the mountaineering feel it had. Real moderate mixed conditions on the Grand Teton. Phil lead strong all day,  and I was glad to be a capable second. Except for my one mishap, producing  one of the worst rope tangles I or Phil had ever seen. We”ll be back climbing as soon as our heels heal.